This time we travel one of the main arteries of the Russafa neighborhood, What can be translated into motion, bustle and local to the last. The other side of the coin is, of course, gentrification, that has put an end to long-standing businesses like the beautiful haberdashery store with wooden shelves that smelled of woodworm where today the Chick Shack sign stands. However, emblematic bars such as the Gardens survive., carrying 35 years serving the usual tapas and sandwiches or Radio Tránsito, the nightclub that has been playing Spanish pop music at full volume for decades to encourage those of us of age to dance. To this street too (above all) It is known for its flaws., the one that converges with Cuba and the one that does so with Sueca, whose house in the number 5 It was the Teatre Valenciancià back in the day 60. Precisely a man of culture gives its name to this road. José Martínez Ruíz, better known by his pseudonym, Azorín, was a writer from the Alicante town of Monóvar who belonged to the generation of 98 along with other illustrious writers such as Miguel de Unamuno and Antonio Machado. Azorín Literary, shaking hands with Queen Na María and Pedro III The Great, connects Antic Regne with the Parc Central on a walk where you can take a (or several) glasses, grilled artichokes like at home, taste a good vegetarian menu, crown it with a flash filling of creme brulee and finish with a short concert. Shall we take a walk?
BACKSTAGE
— Literate Azorín, 1
Indeed, When we cross the door of this bar we sneak behind the scenes. A fireproof bambalinón hangs from the ceiling of the entrance and spotlights on the stage that place us in the backstage of a stage, but here we don't find props, but liquors and condiments ready to mix to offer a good drink. This legendary Russafa joint has been open for twenty years (six with Jaime with manager) that never closes, It is open every day of the year without exception. Where can we go to have the last? Al Backstage, it's open for sure. Backstage was designed for the night but the restrictive measures caused by the pandemic forced it to be readjusted and now it is also open in the mornings to offer coffee and breakfast., but let no one make a mistake, the queen is still the cocktail bar. A queen with three crowns: mojito, margarita y Bloody Mary. Choose yours and relax with jazz in the background in an intimate space illuminated by the skyline of New York and the colors of a giant traffic light.
TULA
— Cádiz, 62
Our eyes go to Tula, to those bright orange letters that tell us about a simple and well-kept place. The typography is original and was designed by a graphic designer from the friendly neighborhood, Juan José Oller. Lunch and dinner are not offered in Tula., is specialized in filling the gaps between hours and in making the tardeo a time of day to enjoy from Wednesday to Sunday. Alejandro has been serving drinks for twenty years in one of the privileged corners of Russafa, raspberry or blackberry mojitos, and classic cocktails such as caipirinha or pina colada.
GARDENS
— Literate Azorín, 1
The Gardens is living history of Russafa, It is the oldest bar on the street and in the entire neighborhood! Inmaculada in the kitchen and José Antonio behind the bar carry 35 years serving tapas and sandwiches from Monday to Saturday in a long establishment with a family atmosphere, a traditional bar with the food arranged in display cases on the bar and the griddle well in sight. And what do we ask for?? Well, the potato omelette, of course, grilled artichokes, real squid (these don't look like plastic) and a sirloin sandwich with foie and caramelized onion to share that always wins. No, no, let it be whole! Inmaculada and José Antonio are two years away from retirement and there will be no generational change, so take advantage of these last hits because bars like this, in Russafa, very few left.
COPENHAGEN
— Literate Azorín, 8
Russafa's first vegetarian restaurant was called Copenhagen and is on Literat Azorín street.. The idea is very simple: offer vegetarian food that also appeals to omnivores, that non-vegetarians sit at the table without fear and eager to try. The fact that? Well, delicious boletus and toasted hazelnut croquettes or gorgonzola with dried figs, walnuts and lime, guacamole with fried sweet potato nachos prepared with great care, quesadillas stuffed with marinated seitan, vegetables, Cheddar cheese and Romescu sauce or burgers made with Quorn steak (tastes like chicken). Lunch menu: 11.90€, with options for vegans and celiacs.
CRÈME BRULÉE
— Literate Azorín, 12
Play something sweet! Inma and Quique have been running this French-style pastry shop for seven years that does not forget the national tradition.. In fact, during our visit, On the counter some of them looked shiny. small panels, and when the season arrives they turn to nougat or marzipan for the mocaora. But the specialty here is the French sweet, which in addition to being tasty is a gift to the eye. There is a lot to choose from, but we would order a pastry cream millefeuille and the jewel in the crown, heclair (Catalan stick) filling of creme brulee. In the back fridge, Some of the cakes at the entrance have become large and you can buy them in cake form to crown some celebration, For example, the typical nasturtium yolk cake. Would you like some chocolates?? Well, there are all types and colors., like mango or passion fruit, and can be ordered in bulk or beautifully packaged as gifts. The perfect place to treat yourself or meet up with a sweet-toothed friend..
UBIK
— Literate Azorín, 13
When the group of Italians who command the Ubik arrived in Valencia twelve years ago, Literato Azorín was not at all the bustling street we know today. They created a then-new concept, a café-bookstore with a children's area, where to have a beer while reading a book or working, snack with friends between meals or play with your little ones. They hit the nail on the head because, over time, His place has become a reference on the street and in Russafa, everyone knows what Ubik is and where it is for a long time. The cafeteria is cozy like a living room., Tasty tapas and appetizing and affordable lunch menu. The second-hand books that are displayed on the shelves, favoring the welcoming atmosphere we were talking about, They are cheaper than in bookstores, you can find €5 copies of science fiction, poetry, dissemination and a thousand other things. In any case, If the place stands out for something, It's because of the cultural gatherings that it creates, The list of events scheduled each week is overwhelming.. Sundays are filled with music with fun concerts, on Saturdays of children who participate in children's workshops and, any day, we can meet with the presentation of a book, some interesting talk, a language exchange session, or a reading club that proposes reading a book each month and sets a day to chat and exchange impressions about it. This activity is the only one that stands up to the pandemic, but they will return to the fray as soon as it is feasible to get together again under the same roof to be able to consume culture as well as alcohol, We know that they have a long list of pending activities.
THE RUZAFA CANTINE
— Literate Azorín, 13A
After going through a long corridor you will end up in a cozy cantina with a beautiful interior patio that has a looong story to tell.. A bandurria that hangs on the back wall begins to tell it., It was manufactured within these same walls when they housed Vicente Tatay's guitar factory.. The factory caught fire and the premises became the headquarters of the Communist Unification of Spain, hence the current logo of La Cantina de Ruzafa is a fist holding a spoon high.. Jaume and Eva are aware of the history of the place and do not want it to be lost in any way.. They arrived from Cornellà with a good bag of hospitality experience behind them (They ran the Diván de los Sentidos restaurant for many years) with the idea of cooking Valencian dishes that were not paella, but, paradoxes of life, They arrived at a place that had been famous for its Sunday paella and we Valencians are people of customs.. In any case, although they have ended up giving in with the paella, They continue with the idea of rescuing preparations from the traditional Valencian recipe book., like figatell (the liver burger) or potato bread (soft and half-moon shaped), that ovens like the neighboring Horno Valencia on Sueca Street stopped making and have now recovered to supply La Cantina's lunches. In addition to breakfasts, To eat you have a menu of the day (8.50-14€) which can be topped with an artisanal lemon or tangerine ice cream made with the fruits that grow from the patio trees, next to the garden that supplies Eva's kitchen with vegetables. Plus a place to eat, The Ruzafa Cantina is a refuge to learn and become cultural. Organize, as long as, vegan protein cooking workshops, of marzipan with natural colors and without sugar (for children, he 9 October), artisan bread or healthy cookies, and host cultural events such as those organized by the Fine Arts student group Orbis Vacui.
HUMANA [CERRADO]
— Literat Azorín, 16
Humana is a Spanish NGO that obtains its resources from textile recycling, that is to say, to resell second-hand clothes, and in Literat Azorín has opened its second store in Valencia. You can donate your clothes in any condition, even if it is worn or broken, and they take it to the sorting factory in Madrid where it is decided if it is suitable for resale or if it has to go to recycling.. As a buyer, you will find clothes of all kinds of styles and qualities, there are “battle” clothes, but some Carolina Herrera piece may also appear at a third of its original price. That is to say, what pieces of 30 or €40 can stay at ten euros. There are coats, scarves, shoes, imitation jewelry, ropa vintage, belts, pockets, wallets, sportswear, shirts, boy clothes, textile (bed sheets, curtains, tablecloths…), even snowsuits and a wetsuit!! And although they are not sold in the store, They also collect toys to carry out specific campaigns. Take a look and you'll find something.
JOAN SANTAMARÍA
— Literate Azorín, 17
Joan Santamaría is and is not a typical hair salon, here hair is cut and highlights are made, Of course, but concerts and exhibitions are also scheduled. Before the Covid-19 crisis, now, like in all places, hibernates waiting for better times. Joan Santamaria has given shelter to the photography of Maria Mira, the ceramics of Eugenia Boscà and the graphic work of Paula Bonet, that he even painted on the entrance glass, and María Herreros, that has left a beautiful permanent illustration that decorates the background of the premises. One of its identity marks is the large showcase that changes regularly and today it welcomes us with a large gray metal planter from Lebrel Furniture and some letters in lion lights that give a clue about what is happening inside.: “Smart crazy things”. Upon entering, the bike hanging from the ceiling, wooden sideboards and furniture vintage They talk about the importance of detail. T-shirts and old industrial-style furniture that Joan bought in stores here and there for resale have been sold here., sometimes, throwing parties for the occasion. Oh well, that this is a hair salon where Joan has been cutting hair for thirty years in a bubble where she tries to slow down the frenetic pace that we carry out on a daily basis and offer you the maximum possible time in a relaxed atmosphere.. Besides, your schedule [14-21h.] It is designed for clients who leave work late and need a haircut. Do you finish at 8pm? Well, you still have time for a touch-up or a change of look.
THE SEA COOPERATIVE
— Literate Azorín, 18
We have special affection for La Cooperativa del Mar in AU. We have seen her born, seven years ago, like La Conservera, renamed La Cooperativa del Mar four years ago due to trademark conflicts and became one of the most charming establishments on the street and in the neighborhood.. Rosa, Román and Luisma invite you to their house, that drinks from Portugal from all sides without forgetting its origins, the old Pepe Fish Market of which the tiles and the inclined robust marble counter where the goods were displayed on ice are still preserved. They have taken care of even the smallest detail, from the typography of the letters (a real marvel), even the decoration, made of wicker chairs and lamps, a huge collage made expressly to decorate the main wall and the net with little fish colored by children. But let's get to the point, what to eat and what to drink. At La Cooperativa del Mar you will find, mainly, the best preserves gourment from our Portuguese neighbors, some masters in the field, y wine very fresh green to accompany. But also preserves from Santander of the highest quality (Rosa tells us that Spain has taken action on the canning issue) and a good assortment of homemade vermouths with different characteristics in which Spain also has a lot to say, all over Galicia, who is experiencing a lot and very well in the matter. What more to ask for? Well potatoes. yes potatoes. They are not just any potatoes, They are big and thick, and they serve them with anchovies, olives and a spectacular majadito, or with mussels and chillies. They are the best in the city! And also the star snack, cod crust with guacamole and mojama, total public success that always sweeps away. From time to time the appetizers vary, but this one is here to stay, and they tell us that the next one that will go up for auction has to do with smoked cod. Cod at one, cod at two… Awarded!
THE SUSHI ROOM
— Literate Azorín, 25
The Sushi Room is not just any Japanese, From the door you can already see the detail and perfection with which the restaurant has been designed. Behind it is the professional hand of CuldeSac, the design consultancy specialized in creative business transformation, that has filled the space with luminous signage from the turn of the century and a light wooden structure that supports warm-colored awnings and beautiful lamps on a floor covered with old Japanese cobblestone. All, absolutely everything is taken care of down to the detail, handmade tableware, the cellar in the background overshadowed by glass of different textures, the music... A wonderful atmosphere that prepares us for what we have come to, to eat. The Sushi Room is traditional cuisine, fusion, fish and rice. Of course, On the menu you will find sashimi and sushi (also grouped in a tasting menu for two people at €68), traditional nigiris and not so much, with truffle or foie pasta, bull with peanut, or seared tuna belly, quail egg and crispy purple potato. And watch out for the uramakis!! They are prepared with crispy sweet potato filaments and passion fruit reduction., or with tempurized eel and tiger's milk foam. All this and we still haven't touched on the ceviches or the starters., they sound that good: duck gyozas in sauce (es-pec-ta-cu-la-res), Nikkei crab meat croquettes with huancaína sauce (peruvian, with yellow chili paste), butter seared scallops, or squid crackling with sweet and sour sambal sauce. Prepare your wallet and pay yourself a tribute, at The Sushi Room they offer you a good gastronomic experience that comes from Japan to merge with the rest of the globe.
ALADROC
— Literate Azorín, 26
Upon entering Aladroc you will be surrounded by a beautiful school of hand-painted fish that tell us where the shots are going.. In Aladroc, sister bar of La Finestra, What is served is fresh fish from the market cooked on the grill and it is better that you do not go with an idea in your head because the menu varies depending on what the sea has brought that morning. Yes indeed, if there is octopus, who cook on the grill, with roast potatoes and Romescu sauce, don't think about it for a moment. And at noon, fresh pasta that they make themselves, accompanied by some fish or seafood, like the mussel, which they also prepare on the grill with creamed potatoes and ginger. Do you feel like?
GRAY – DRAWING CABINET
— Literat Azorín, 33
Your illustrations dress in Gray, paintings and photographs with the suit that best fits and enhances the content. Framing are perfectionists to the extreme and work with a professionalism that makes life easier for anyone., Luis will suggest the material and shape of the frame, the color and size of the mat (it is appropriate) and the type of glass that is adjusted to get the most out of your piece according to the budget you have.. The next door gives access to the Drawing Cabinet, a gallery specializing in contemporary drawing that began as a small showcase in its old premises on the same street and is now a room dedicated to showing the work of some of the most interesting artists in the area and beyond, as Roberto Mollá, Ernesto Casero or Nieves Torralba, who starred in the gallery's first individual exhibition with large-format graffiti that reproduced plant shapes with taste and elegance. Now it is Felipe Ortega-Regalado who has work exhibited within the exhibition It's not me who draws. Gray is quality in the framing and the Cabinet of Drawings, top-level graphic art that is always worth visiting.
MOMENTOLUX
— Literate Azorín, 30
Momentolux is a laboratory of fine art specialized in printing and assembly of artistic work for artists, galleries and museums. We are not talking about a typical photographic laboratory because here we only work with works of art and the strict ISO standards required by museums are followed so that the levels of conservation are maximum and the printed work can survive unaltered between 150 y 250 years. They work on projects, that is to say, that artists like the Guatemalan photographer Luis González Palma come to them looking for printing and mounting options that adapt to the set objective, in your case, get the most out of the gold leaf you work with. The solutions are infinite depending on each case, can be printed on methacrylate, in light boxes, on natural silks or Japanese paper, very suitable for document restoration due to its long fibers. They work with renowned institutions such as the Tapies Foundation, the Telefónica Foundation, the MACBA or the Luis Adelantado gallery, artists like the Argentine Ananké Asseff and festivals like Intramurs, who commissioned them to print the photograph with which Spencer Tunick thanked the 1.300 participants posing naked in front of the Serranos Towers in the edition of 2019. At the entrance of the premises they have reserved a small space to exhibit work and, when we visit him, Photographs by Alberto Adsuara hung on the walls that delve into the relationship established between the classic works of the Museum of Fine Arts of Valencia and the observer who contemplates them.. And the observer who observes the observer... Anyway, they will explain it to you better.
CLOUD 7
— Literate Azorín, 30 Low, right.
In the afternoons the street is filled with curious little ones who walk towards Nube 7, the place where they ask the why of things. This educational center specialized in STEAM teaching (Science, Technology, Engineering, Arts and Mathematics) proposes to have a great time tinkering with technology. Maker Club members learn electronics, programming, robotics, 3D design and printing, and use what they learn to create, from video games, even refrigerator magnets; In the Film Club the little ones learn to tell stories, to record them with your mobile and to edit your videos; and the Science Club enhances scientific and logical-mathematical skills through experiments and fun activities. In normal times they offer science workshops for families, video game programming or Halloween in 3D (where they experiment with pumpkins, zombies or virtual skulls), so when things return to normal we will be attentive. Curiosity has no limits!
ROLLING FOOD
— Literate Azorín, 42
Inma is dedicated to nutritional advice for people, schools and communities. Prepares and supervises school menus for nursery schools and colleges, but they can also advise you on your diet, first analyzing your habits and then drawing up a strategy that takes you towards the goal, whether it's overcoming a health problem or learning to eat healthier. Besides, holds sporadic workshops where he cooks live (now online), healthy eating, Christmas tapas, to season with spices and aromatic herbs or to use the leftovers of a stew of legumes. Shall we make some falafels?? If you want to improve your diet you can contact her by email (immagirba@rollingfood.es) or by phone (669 401 071).
ART 43
— Literate Azorín, 43
until 43 It is a store of material for fine arts and also an academy. Illustration workshops for teenagers and regulated art classes for children are offered., who learn to draw with watercolor, acrylic paint and charcoal, or to model clay with technique and grace. Besides, You can also celebrate your birthday by doing a thematic manual activity with friends focused on the art of the Iberians., the roman bulls (amulet that was placed on male children after their birth) or cave painting. Workshops have also been held for adults., to learn to handle materials such as mixed media that combines two or more artistic techniques, with fabric to make bags, or decoration of skulls and heads of Darth Vaders (with a hole in the middle where the beer can fits 😉 Also, if you have a specific project, They offer you personalized guidance from a teacher who guides you and advises you on the best way to carry it out.. A lady was customizing a piece of furniture at the back of the room when we visited them.. Do you have something in mind but need a little help??
