Panellets for All Saints and other sweets

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I do, we have decided that we will talk about All Saints meals, that we need to talk about it. Perhaps with the strong bursts of intruding American traditions that we receive in Adesiara, there is no other way than to use ingenuity to make our traditions live and strengthen them. see, otherwise, the new game of the Valencian Enric Aguilar, called Alakazum, where you have to fight against all this Yankee culture that floods us more and more. Or also the delicious promotion of the characters and monsters of the popular Valencian mythology ofAndana Editorial through the book Maria is not afraid, the disc For of the singer Dani Miquel or the initiative "scare the» that the Valencian Museum of Ethnology in which Linguistic Normalization Unit of the Diputación de Valencia spread with presentations, workshops and posters, etc.

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Valencian monsters on the side, what can we find in the Valencian recipe for All Saints? Because what is clear is that in Valencia you don't need Halloween to use the pumpkin…

The tradition of remembering our dead begins each year on the day 31 October of darkness. that night, called Night of the Souls, he used to pose at home together you cheer (o minetes) ignitions (a kind of candles with very small flames) to remember our loved ones. Vincent Marques, in his book Half a dozen lepolies he tells us about the animes and tells us:

 

I remember when my mother used to light them, on top of the drawer, which was a little scary because in the dark the flames cast strange shadows all over the room, shadows that, in a child's imagination, could well be the specters of those relatives we had invoked and who might have come to pay us a visit.

 

The next day, the day of All Saints, it has always been a day to visit the dead and be at home with family. Many of the sweets we have were made at home (THE folded, THE cofafes, THE fogasses, THE cristine shells) they are made specifically to be held in the hand and eaten (mostly the kids) when cemeteries were visited. In the links above we offer you the recipes.

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The wind donuts and the bones of saint, sweets that are shared throughout the Iberian Peninsula, are also present, but above all the latter are a product that is more readily available in patisseries, even though it is more expensive to make at home.

all in all, we wanted to emphasize the Valencianness of the small panels.

Often (at present) many people think that panellets are typical sweets only from Catalonia and, quite the opposite, they are very Valencian lepolies that, at the same time, we share with the Pitiüses, especially with Ibiza, and with Mallorca where they are usually strung with a string to make the shape of a rosary (he sugared rosary) next to other lepolias.


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The panels ─like the folded ones, fogasses, cofafes, etc.─ they were sweets that were made at home on All Saints' Eve (see a recipe at the end courtesy of the publisher shipyard), like most traditional Valencian sweets. In recent times these sweets have become very popular in Catalan bakeries and patisseries, in the Valencian Country, they had a more timid exit in the commercial world. Even so, they can be found in a lot of bakeries and bakeries that religiously produce them for this holiday (below you have a few addresses where to find them).

A proof of the Valencianness of the panels are these verses from Floral Games of Valencia 1910 written by Tomàs Tarín and Morel and whose title was "Als panellets de Tots Sants" where you can find called Eugenio Burriel, a sugarer of a very popular pastry saga in the valence of the volts of the 1900 who ran several patisseries and confectioneries there for what would be the new Plaça de la Reina built in Valencia at the end of the 19th century.

 

No tomatoes, melons, pepinets, peres;
boats, swimming pools, by carabasa;
ni anous, no molasses jams,
ni soroles, pruñóns, whole files;
ni prunes, ni ponsils, Neither Les Sireres
that Eugenio Burriel confits at home,
there was no naixcut, but our race
that's the same, not even joking, not even really…
But now the goal is all there,
It's what pastry dies in…
the All Saints panels, they are joy
of all lépol that endolsa its existence…
and the menchá is so fine and so tasty,
than my humanity… ha fet greedy!

 

As you can see, Tarín didn't do anything short of exalting the panels in front of all kinds of fine dining, as he would say.

A few years later, he 1922, in the booklet of the falla of Carrer Sant Vicent-Padilla in Valencia, they appointed the famous panels again:

 

Valencia is a people
and since Cap d'Añ day
in its nougats and cakes,
in the Christmas cakes,
we have one of farragos
hard to list.
In each time its own,
in addition to the amendment,
they are donuts, the slices,
the classic bescuitá,
the cheerful monkey of Easter,
the good buns of all
and a handful of other things
what if he wanted to pose like that
I wouldn't have enough in everything
the role of which hands.

 

Originally made with almonds and coated with pine nuts, nowadays we can find more tastes: hazelnut, café, cocoa, coco, strawberry… We recommend the pastries from The Rose of Jericho, where you can find more than a dozen tastes (they even have bergamot ones) made with extreme delicacy (the photos in our article are of their panels).

See here other bakeries and patisseries in Cap i Casal where to find them:

The Rose of Jericho, Carrer d'Hernan Cortés, 14.
Casaní pastry chefs, Calle de Jorge Juan, 12.
Pastry shop Monplà, Carrer de Pizarro, 32.
Terra de pa, Carrer de l'Archiduc Carles, 81.
Forn pastisseria Montaner, Roteros street, 5.
Forn San Bartolome, Calle del Duc de Calabria, 14 and Plaça del Tossal.

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The tradition of the panels is not known for sure. There are those who say that they used to prepare for the All Saints meal and others who say that the bell ringers were presented with these sweets to endure the bell ringing day of All Saints. Follow with follow, dried fruit coincides with the coldest seasons of the year. That is why almost all the Valencian sweets of Tots Sants contain dried fuca (good almonds, raisins or pine nuts, etc.). Let's not forget, But, of the chestnuts. The habit of eating them also begins on All Saints Day. So much so than before, in many localities, it was on this day that the cantanyeres (and chestnut trees) they went out to sell. In some verses called "On All Saints' Night" of theValencia announcer, of the 1916, we find this written:

 

The day flees from the saddle
covers of shades,
and while they shine
in glasses and casseroles
enseses minetes,
they prepare the women
dinner and rosaries,
sweet potatoes and cakes,
live wood farter,
cut sticks that were,
while he sees sad
for the dark streets
the chestnut tree sings
more soul than man:
Castañes torraes,
hot and good!

 

And you, what do you eat typical of All Saints? We would like you to tell us what you have kept and what you have recovered from the Valencian holiday of All Saints. Write to us at tastaldaci@gmail.com or comment on our posts at social networks (FB, TW , IG i YT @tastaldaci) to introduce us to the typical Valencian meals of this festival.

XAVIER BENAVENT / MARTINA MONLLAU

 

 

ALMOND AND PINYON PANELS RECIPE
(Excerpt from the book Valencian sweets, by Chelo Peiro, of the hydatory shipyard)

TotsSantsDrassana

 

Ingredients:

125 g of almonds a lot
75 g de sucre
A coffee cup of water
One or XL (the white to mix and the yolk to spread)
A spoonful of water
pine nuts

Elaboration:

Heat the water with the sugar and let it rest 2 a 3 minutes while stirring the syrup. Remove from the heat and pour in plenty of almonds, as you remove and add more. When the mixture is warm, pour in the lightly beaten egg white. Knead until you have a thin dough that does not stick to your fingers. Put it in the fridge 2 hours.

Form into balls 20 g. Spread with the yolk mixed with a spoonful of water, coat with the pine nuts and bake them for 10 min a 180ºC. Bring them, brush them again with the yolk and keep them 5 min more in the oven.

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