This month we will dedicate the section Congested streets from Nazareth, small neighborhood of fishermen and farmers attached to La Punta, linked to a port that does not rest and that ended with the beach that many residents still remember as the beach of their childhood and one of the most beautiful in the city. So much so that many wealthy families from Valencia who lived in the center had their vacation home in Nazareth.. The current neighborhood is different from the one you remember, but it continues to be a place where a lot of neighborhood life takes place and where, They assure, you live peacefully despite what is said. The facades full of flowers have not disappeared, the streets with the appearance of a town and named in recognition of the trams (Manuel Andrés or Francisco Falcons) and the incessant life of a pedestrian walk next to the Parish of Our Lady of the Forsaken, the only one in the city that has the patron saint of Valencia as its owner and that fulfills an undeniable social function for its help to the vulnerable families of Nazareth. We are going to visit two legendary bars where you can eat wonderfully, two ovens where we want to try everything and a skate park, and we are also going to learn some secrets from an area unknown to us until now., but closer and more attractive the more we investigate.
Mural painting tribute to Nazareth
— Nazareth Park, s/n
In the 1940s, many Valencians spent Sundays on the beach in Nazareth., a large sleeve of sand that extended from the mouth of the ancient Túria River to the south, until almost touching Pinedo beach. The tram reached the very beach and there, next to Club Benimar, families who came to the neighborhood to enjoy the day in swimsuits got off between the Mar Azul Spa (missing today), reed picnic areas and vendors of popsicles and cacaus. One of these images is captured in the black and white photography that weaves together the comic. return to eden by Paco Roca, who, together with the artist Martín Forés, stamped on 2021 In the party wall of the Nuestra Señora de los Desamparados school, a mural made expressly to honor the neighborhood. Combining the flat comic ink that Roca is used to with the hyperrealistic style of Forés, which was inspired by the modernist decoration of the Estació del Nord, a scene appears recreated in which 32 characters play, they chat, they walk, They observe and work at the foot of a beach that no longer exists. He 19 May 1986 The Valencia City Council approved the southern expansion of the Port of València, causing a clear regression of the beaches of Pinedo and El Saler and condemning those of La Punta and Nazaret to the disappearance.. More than forty years later, The project for a new extension has been found facing the Comissió Ciutat-Port platform, organizer of a demonstration 16 June to protest the construction of this large infrastructure that would negatively impact the southern beaches and the Albufera Natural Park.
Bar El Mesó
— Above the Sea, 58
When we ask the manager what is typical of El Mesó, the answer is overwhelming.: “delicacies”. There are plenty of adjectives when we talk about smoked tables, salted, sliced tomato with good tuna loin, grilled fresh foie, crumbled oxtail, pig's trotters of the gentleman, stewed deer meat, sepionet in its ink and Spanish cheese boards (from Valladolid, from Navarre, from the Canary Islands…). The mystery comes with the bravas sauce: They call it “old-time sauce” and it seems that the recipe will die with them. We respect it, Well, the place is packed and the secret of success is something difficult to share.. The terrace is very lively, in the middle of a pedestrian promenade with palm trees the sea of pleasant, next to the neighborhood parish. They tell us that the genre is of high quality, of small producers and the Nazareth market, that they have right next door. Everything is done in the moment, nothing is prepared in advance, so if you have to wait, well you wait, but it will be worth it. That doesn't mean service is slow., the team does not stop for a second and, even more difficult, They smile all the time and make jokes with two questioning journalists.
Artisanal oven Les netes de Rafaelet
— Above the Sea, 61
The formerly called Forn de Rafelet, founded on 1932, changed owners and, therefore, of name; Rafaelet's granddaughters are the ones who now run this business that continues to receive awards for good work.. And the quality of the products is undeniable.: The bread is made from sourdough and there is 100% carob or whole grain flour., hard to find, and this is what has led them to win one star out of the hundred that are awarded throughout Spain in the field of bakery.. Let's go, that this oven is the equivalent of a Michelin Star restaurant. The Guild of Bakers and Pastry Chefs of Valencia has also awarded them with the first prize of panquemaos of the city, as well as special breads, who have already won on several occasions, or the shop window, that decorate with care and good taste for every special occasion or party. To this we add carob flour cookies, sweet potato pastries, anise rolls, beautiful personalized cakes and a lot of sympathy.
Jomi House
— Castell del Pop, 13
How lucky we have been, They are opening Casa Jomi. We see a guy taking his quad from inside and setting up the tables. It's Miguel, current owner and son and nephew of the founding partners, José and Miguel. The two brothers took over this place (formerly a potato sack repair shop) in 1969 y, with the wonderful hand of Miguel's mother in the kitchen, They made it what it is today.: a neighborhood classic and a temple of good eating. In those days they offered what no one else offered: They were pioneers in the montaditos proposals, which are rather toast, because of the size, Cantabrian anchovies, Iberian ham or the so-called “Brussels chop” (Belgian finely chopped onion recipe, sliced radish and Provençal herbs on a thin layer of cream cheese). They also serve salted fish from San Pedro del Pinatar (It is said that they are the best), dirty cuttlefish, cuttlefish eggs, duck breast, foie and duck confit, deer sirloin, flame dried capellanet, dried octopus, musola… In its early days it was known as “the bravas bar” because the cook added a sauce more similar to the mojo picón that became famous (something is happening in this neighborhood with the bravas sauce); but, definitely, the one that takes the prize is the mery sauce, thicker, incredibly delicious, well kept secret. Today its proposal continues to be the combination of the best quality products and traditional recipes., although they have incorporated some new features such as kangaroo meat, For example. To get an idea of how good the food is here, inside we see photos of each and every one of the dishes, We think they do it so that the clientele starts salivating.. Accompanying the photos are pictures of knots, of the fish that flutter in the Valencian Mediterranean, a framed thresher shark fin, We also found an old pinball machine and some more curiosities that are worth another chapter.. Let's go, that we have before us a long-established bar that continues to maintain its customs and customers who are very grateful that it does so., who came with their family when they were runts and who now bring their daughters and sons.
German Oven
— Nazareth Main Street, 132
It was in 1928 when the Andrés family founded the Horno Germán, named after the father of the current owner, who now runs the business with her husband. They come from Carpesa, where they had the original oven, but they moved to this Valencian neighborhood more than fifty years ago. Customers come from all over the city for their bread., that offers so much variety and quality that claims even in the distance: they have it camut, pumpkin, tomato and olives, espelta o avena. Definitely, this is its strong point, and which has led them to win many awards in recognition of good work and the creation of a quality, artisan product.. In its display case we see the sweet potato pastries, giant millefeuille, some cream susus that demand us, well-made nuggets and takeaways that we are sure will not lower the bar for this place that only offers the best.
Pumptrack Park
— Jesus Nazarene, s/n
On the edge of the neighborhood, inside the mouth park between the port docks, we found this great skate park, paradise for lovers surfskate and sliding sports. They say it is one of the best pumptrack circuits in the entire Valencian Community and even in Spain., with curves, ramps and jumps, in a quiet environment, with cranes in the background. The truth is that it makes you want to take a bike or skates and slide down its slopes.. Maybe one day we'll cheer up.
